- June 3, 2025
Renowned photographer Rankin, celebrated for his iconic portraits and editorial work, attended the Hair by Schwarzkopf Festival in Berlin to unveil his latest collaboration with the brand.
While in Berlin, Rankin presented his “Rankin x Schwarzkopf Professional: London Calling” shoot, featured in the brand-new Schwarzkopf Professional Magazine – Issue 2025. He also led a talk on his approach to photographing hair and shared insights from decades of creative work alongside some of the world’s leading beauty professionals. In this exclusive interview with Estetica Magazine, he speaks with Sergi Bancells about the challenges of shooting hair, his admiration for hairstylists, and why he believes it’s time they’re recognized as true artists.
WHAT DO YOU REMEMBER ABOUT YOUR EARLY DAYS WORKING WITH HAIRDRESSING LEGENDS LIKE ANTHONY MASCOLO?
“Amazing memories. Back then, what Anthony was doing was like a parallel creative world to what we were doing with Dazed & Confused. They supported us early on, and that’s also how I met Nick Irwin. It was a very creative, exciting time.”
HAIR PHOTOGRAPHY IS ITS OWN CHALLENGE. WHAT MAKES IT SO UNIQUE?
“Hair is culture. It’s deeply personal—it’s not like makeup, which you can wipe off. Hair is a long-term commitment, and it moves, it breathes. I spend a lot of time listening to the really, really good hairdressers I work with about how to do it, and I combine that with my ability to light stuff. Lighting it properly is crucial. You have to be detailed and technical. What I try to bring is personality. Too many hair images are static, almost like still lifes. I want to bring them to life — as you can see in the Schwarzkopf Professional Magazine— by capturing movement, texture, and the person behind the hair.”
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY ABOUT WORKING WITH SCHWARZKOPF?
“When you work with Schwarzkopf, you’re working with creativity. They push boundaries, encourage experimentation, and work with hair artists who express individuality and culture. It’s about artistic expression. That’s what sets them apart.”
WHAT MESSAGE DO YOU WANT TO SHARE WITH PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSERS?
“Believe in your art. We call them ‘makeup artists,’ but rarely refer to ‘hair artists’—even though that’s exactly what you are. Hair is a true art form. When I collaborate with exceptional hairdressers, I aim to create something lasting—images that still resonate a decade later, especially when working with such visionary talent.”
WHY DO YOU THINK HAIR PROFESSIONALS OFTEN DON’T GET THE RECOGNITION THEY DESERVE?
“It’s true—they don’t. If the hair goes wrong in a shoot, you’re done. You can fix makeup or clothes, but not hair. Yet the credit usually goes only to the photographer. Creating an image is a team effort, and the hair artist is absolutely vital. That’s why I believe we need to start calling them what they are: artists.”
YOU’VE WORKED WITH COUNTLESS CULTURAL ICONS. HOW DO YOU SEE HAIR IMPACTING THEIR CONFIDENCE OR IMAGE?
“Hair plays a huge role. I’ve seen so many celebrities get upset when their hair isn’t right. It’s incredible how much it matters—especially to male celebrities, who often worry about it more than you’d expect. But at the end of the day, they’re just human beings, like the rest of us. Hair is incredibly personal, and when it’s not right, it can really affect someone’s confidence. Makeup can be changed easily, but hair—hair is much harder to fix unless you’re working with the very best. That’s why great hair artists are essential.”
LASTLY, WHAT ADVICE DO YOU GIVE TO YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHERS IN TODAY’S IMAGE-SATURATED WORLD?
“Don’t treat photography as disposable. Capture a moment that lasts. Think about what your photo will mean in 10, 20, 50 years. If you shoot with that intention, your work will resonate more deeply—and you’ll become a better photographer.”